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The information is in the regulations, I’ve put it below.
Which is the best is up for debate, it seems to be circuit dependant and mostly about if gears match the corner speeds.
We have a professional who does our windows and others, who does a fantastic job, no bubbles or wrinkles. He explained that due to the curvature of the window going much beyond the start of black is extremely difficult as the material is already at it’s limit. We’ve not been challenged on our job, but if you did need to cover it you could do it separately as suggested above.
For anyone who might be interested, Lion window films are offering a rear glass safety film service for £80 including labour and materials. If you’re interested feel free to email me, firstname.lastname@example.org – we are arranging to do delivery/swaps to most race meets.
That’s a question which can’t really be answered I’m afraid. It depends on your skill/familiarity with the jobs, the level you want to do it to and the state of the car you’re starting with. If you’re considering paying someone to do the work I would strongly recommend you buy a pre-built (used) car instead, it will be much much cheaper.
I think if you’ve not done something like this before and you want to do a good job you’ll easily hit 70+ hours, probably more like 100 by the time it’s completely ready, especially when you think about the time spent researching some of the more fiddly things.
Hope that helps.
Some pictures might be helpful. Also what parts did you fit?02/02/2020 at 11:11 pm in reply to: Help – Fitting a rev counter to a base spec car 2009+ #11136
It’s really straight forward, all of the clocks have the connector for it built in, so you just need to buy a rev counter and screw it in with 1 bolt. I’m not sure if your binnacle will have the cutout, so you might need the binnacle with a slot for it. If you need help getting the part let me know, I know a guy down here with 1 spare, or speak to Rik at SmallCarParts.
Something like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-107-CITROEN-C1-TOYOTA-AYGO-REV-COUNTER-83270-0H020-J-05-14-BREAKING/113815709980?fits=Model%3AC1&hash=item1a7ff1e91c:g:tWMAAOSwghZdxX0g should be fine – just check it’s from a petrol.
For future reference this weekend at Pembrey used the following format. 1 qualifying session was held on the first day and set the start order for both races. On the morning of the second day there was a short warm up session to allow new drivers to do their required 3 laps to prove their ability and allow them to take part – this did not effect the starting order for the race.
For information this weekend at Pembrey had a similar setup. 1 qualifying session was held on the first day and set the start order for both races. On the morning of the second day there was a short warm up session to allow new drivers to do their required 3 laps to prove their ability and allow them to take part – this did not effect the starting order for the race.
Interesting, I saw the change as a purely cosmetic one as I don’t believe the removal would be in anyway relevant to the performance of the car, I’ve done it purely to look a bit nicer when painted. While I’ll didn’t see a specific reg I thought applied in section 10, I appreciate the catch all statement in section 8 could apply – more caution needed!
I guess I wait to see if there is a clarification offered from the club, and hope it’s not a bad one for myself or the other existing cars without sealer.
Just an update to say Rick did indeed sort me out. Top chap, top prices.
I think this is a personal preference item, certainly nothing in the regs that stipulates one way or the other and there were cars racing last year with and without seam sealer. I’ve just spent 4 hours getting rid of the stuff and I’m still not finished. Beware the job if you do start it!
Yes they are permitted, refer to 2019 regulations #10.2.9 for specifications.
It looks like that part number is for the bolt part of the drop link: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bolt~90112-se0-000.html
The results on eBay are for pattern parts, not genuine Honda. Is a genuine one required?
Great, thanks Philip – appreciate it.