Roll cage installation
Follow the Safety Devices installation instructions.
It’s a good idea to have a bag of M10 plain nuts handy so you don’t have to wind the supplied Nyloc nuts on and off the bolts as you’re dry fitting the cage – it goes in and out at least 3 times. The basic installation is as follows:
- Remove rear suspension turret flanges.
- Dry fit cage to get the positions of the foot plates.
- Drill rear suspension turrets for harness bar bolts.
- Remove cage and drill 25mm dia holes for foot plate nuts into cills. Remove paint around cage feet ready for welding.
- Dry fit cage and tack weld feet in correct position.
- Remove cage and weld (TIG if you can) feet into position.
- Weld racing harness reinforcing plates into floor.
- Paint cage feet and harness plates (or the whole interior).
- Trim upper and lower dash panels to fit around front cage legs.
- Install cage using Nyloc nuts and torque as specified.
You may need to have either a Porta-Power or bottle jack when fitting the cage. People have needed to push the rear cage feet out to fit snuggly to the cills and to push the rear suspension towers apart to get the harness bar between them.
Don’t forget to fit the supplied harness bar spreader plates to the outside of the body. They’re easier to do if the rear springs aren’t fitted, so plan to do the rear springs/coilovers at the same time.
Detailed roll cage installation notes can be found here.